We plan to make a new doublet for Karsten during the winter - one to go with my Dürer dress. So I was looking for a style common in southern Germany at the end of the 15th century. Here is some artwork (mainly from the Master of the Housebook) I plan to base the doublet on:
Oct 18, 2009: In the top 4 pictures you can see the type of doublet I would like to reproduce. It seems to
have been worn mainly by fashionable young men :-)
It is widely opened in the front, only below the belly button it seems to be hold together (or tightly closed with eyes and hooks). The front opening is laced at the very top with a thin lace. The doublet is quite short and ends at the hem of the hose, were it must be attached by lacing through eylets - what is unfortunately not visible in these pictures. But then you see very little of the waistline as most of the men wear a short little cape hanging over one shoulder (that must have been quite fashionable) together with this doublet.
The armholes for the sleeves are very wide - both at the front and the back. The fitted sleeve is usually only sewn to the top of the armholes, below the arm the seam remains opened. (You can see that quite well in picture 1, 3, 6 & 7). Yet, to keep the sleeve so thight around the upper arm without attaching it to the lower armhole requires an additional fastening... Consider picture 6: The way he lifts his arm, I would expect the upper end of the sleeve to stick out, which it does not. And I believe you can barely make out a lacing running forth between armhole and sleeve... At least I've seen that type of lacing in other pictures (Thalhofers illustrations for instance) and I expect it is used here as well.
As with many female dresses in the art of the Master of the Housebook, the sleeves are opened below the arm awell beyond the ellbow and fastened by lacing through eyeholes (4 of them in the 4th picture). As well, the sleeves do not quite reach the wrist but seem to be of 3/4 length. A few of the pictures show an additional gash in the front of the sleeve at upper arm height (see picture 1, 3 & 4). Must have been fashionable as well... But additionally I suppose that style could be quite comfortable in hot weather - what with all those holes and openings.
The 4th picture shows that the front lacing occurs through little rings attached to an ornamented flat piece of metal that is attached to the end of the collar (in both the male and the female dress in that example. In the picture of the Gothaer pair of lovers (see the Dürer dress) that fastening thing is coloured gold, that's why I suppose it is metal and not just stitched ornamentation. Propably we will try to cut it from a brass sheet (with an ornamented edge), solder rings to the other edge and then gild the whole thing.
A smocked shirt (as in picture 4) would be really cool (as well to go with my Dürer dress), but I guess I can't find the time for that anytime soon....
In most of the pictures I've chosen the doublet is combined with a short cape, but as the last picture shows it can alternatively be worn below a gown (which will reveal much less of the doublet of course). In this case, the gown has multiple gashes at the shoulder and one in the front.
November 01, 2009: We've started fitting the bodice for the doublet. Just as for the Dürer dress we widened the armholes a bit (the first two pictures still show only the markings for the wider armholes). We will add smaller pieces of cloth below the waistline for attachment to the hose on all pieces of the pattern (we just omitted them because there was not much of the cheap cloth left). The third picture is a nice illustration from the Housebook that shows how the neckline of that kind of doublet is supposed to look on the back (round, even width all round, not very deep, made from two pieces of cloth).
May 02, 2009: In the past weeks I've reconsidered the initial pattern for Karsten's doublet... First of all, I
found out that adapting my grande assiette sleeves for Karsten turned out to be more difficult than
expexted - I had to fit around 6 sleeves until I got it right and I had to change the armholes of the bodice... After that was done I
used the scraps of dark red wool that were left from cutting out the pieces of my Dürer dress for
Karsten's doublet. The doublet is completely lined with dark blue linen. In the front, it is closed by three pairs of eyes and hooks
(picture 4). What's left to do? Lots of eyelets (for the sleeves, for attaching the hose, for lacing across the chest), pretty silk laces
(sleeves and front) and hopefully eventually some decorated metal endpiece for lacing the collar...
Below are pictures of the pattern of bodice (picture 1) and sleeves (picture 2), me sewing the doublet (picture 3), plus front (picture 4) and back (picture 5) of the half-completed doublet.
June 22, 2010: The finished doublet
I managed to complete all eyelets and laces just in time for antwerp... and now here are finally some pictures to complete this page: